The Strangest Behaviours….
The Strangest of Behaviours…..
This little story is the result of a ‘research’ chat I had with an older surfer/coach who has been a waterman for a long time.
We discussed the behaviours of surfers new and old. Some of the things that we do, may seem strange to the outside world, but as surfers we live inside a strange bubble of factors.
So here are a few oddities….
Some of us have been known to use modern information technology, from swell predictors, to webcams and a range of reporting websites and applications…but will ignore all that advice and head to the beach, just to make sure that the rest of the world has got it right…or wrong!
In search of that perfect and uncrowded spot, we will find a perfectly good wave, only to get back in the car, believing it will be better somewhere else. So you/we drive from spot to spot, beach to beach…slowly working your way back to where you started! Its an endless search for perfection, which sometimes results in settling for mediocre!
Each board in the quiver has a specific feature, and can only be ridden in special circumstances! While it makes sense to have maybe 2 or 3 boards of differing dimensions….having a collection based on your mood or just liking the colours is something much crazier!
This is closely related to the “Many Boards” syndrome as described above. Just because technology is advancing at a rapid rate, (particularly materials), does not necessarily mean our ability is moving at the same rate too. Buying boards based on technology is wierd (dont worry, I have this logic myself), but it makes for a great debate in your head!
There are days we drive down to the beach, see a wave that is barely breaking, we race around to get into it and are extremely satisfied and stoked! It could be 24 hours later, when better conditions appear, and we suddenly become a fussy surfer, needing perfect conditions to perform!
Its a crazy life this surfing, where strange habits develop, patience runs thin…but a great day in the water clears our heads, and we start again….